Brush SutraBRUSH SUTRA

Gujarat, India

Rogan

Rogan is one of the rarest art forms in the world, practised today by a single family in Nirona village, Kutch, Gujarat. Using castor oil-based paint, the artist creates intricate patterns by manipulating threads of colour from a metal rod — never touching the cloth with the rod itself.

History

The Story Behind the Art

Rogan painting has been practised in Kutch for over 300 years, brought to the region by craftsmen from Persia. The word Rogan comes from the Persian for oil-based colour. For most of its history, Rogan was used to decorate bridal textiles and ceremonial cloth for the nomadic communities of Kutch.

The art form was sustained by the Khatri family of Nirona village across generations. The 2001 Gujarat earthquake paradoxically brought international attention to the region's crafts and triggered a revival.

Today, Abdul Gafur Khatri's sons and grandsons continue the tradition. Rogan has been exhibited worldwide and remains the most technically unique textile art in India.

Techniques

How It Is Made

Rogan paint is made by boiling castor oil for over 8 hours until it becomes a thick, elastic paste, then mixing it with natural mineral pigments. A metal rod is used to pick up threads of colour and transfer them to the cloth by holding the rod close to the surface — without direct contact.

The signature Rogan motif is the Tree of Life. Designs are created freehand using the mirror-fold technique: the painting is made on one half of the cloth, then folded to transfer the image to the other half.

Materials Used

  • Hand-spun cotton cloth
  • Castor oil (boiled and reduced)
  • Natural mineral pigments
  • Metal rod for paint manipulation

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